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I am now a wing brining covert.

I have been making wings for a long time now, especially getting into it when I noticed that Costco sells these packs of “party wings”. Party wings are the drumnette and flat parts of the chicken wings served as individual segments. It is super convenient for everything to already come as these snackable pieces and not have to deal with the wing tips that most people aren’t that into. In the spirit of these already convenient party wing packs, my past approach had been to keep the whole wing making process as simple as possible, and I thought that surely brining was not worth the hassle.

Recently though, my friend Taleen and I had a crazy impulse-buy moment where we decided to take on the Hot Ones challenge. “Hot Ones” is an interview webseries by First We Feast where celebrities are asked questions while eating progressively spicier wings. Every season involves a different hot sauce lineup for the wings and we bought one of these collections of hot sauces to challenge our spice tolerance. I volunteered to cook the wings, and then our plan was to follow the Covid Era format of the show where everyone participating would dip the wings into the sauce or pour it on to their discretion as we moved down the gauntlet. I really wanted the wings to taste good on their own since I wouldn’t have control over how much sauce everyone at the party would be adding, so I decided to try brining…and wow! I was amazed at how good the wings tasted even without any added sauce or seasoning. I immediately became convinced that the brining made a big difference.

I had looked at a bunch of brining recipes online before trying out the process and they all seemed to involve a horrific amount of salt. I know it becomes totally diluted, but I had had a bad experience with a dry brining recipe before in the past, so I was operating with an abundance of caution. I trusted my instincts and used an amount of salt that did not make me feel uncomfortable, and the wings turned out plenty moist, savory, and flavorful. You can (and probably will) add seasoning or sauce after the wings are cooked, and keep in mind those will add salt to the equation too! Having tested this recipe more since my initial brining revelation, I really am not sure why other recipes need so much salt.

So am I going to be brining my wings from now on? Truthfully, no. If I am planning to immediately coat the wings in something really strong in flavor like a bottled bbq sauce or buffalo wings sauce, these tend to be high in sodium already and my laziness will outweigh the benefits of brining on the juicy interior texture of the wings. But if I’m going to be using a lighter dry seasoning blend or am planning to serve the wings relatively plain with dipping sauces, I’ll definitely be using this brining recipe!

The wings in the photo are salt and pepper wings—inspired by a combination of the Taiwanese popcorn chicken that you get at boba shops and salt and pepper tofu or squid that is found at Cantonese restaurants. After following the steps in the recipe below, I tossed the wings in a seasoning combination of ground Sichuan peppercorns, white pepper, salt, and Chinese five spice (to taste). I then combined the seasoned wings with jalapeño slices, scallions, and fried Thai basil and served them with gochujang crema.

What’s your favorite way to season or sauce up your party wings? Let me know in the comments below!

Ingredients

~2.5 lbs wing segments, cleaned
2 cups water, room temp
1/4 cup sugar
scant 1/4 cup kosher salt
2 cups water, cold
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
~1 cup cornstarch
3+ cups frying oil (e.g. canola or vegetable)

Procedure

In a small sauce pan, combine 2 cups regular water, sugar, and salt and begin to heat on low. Stir gently until the sugar and salt are completely resolved. Remove from heat. And pour into a very large non-reactive bowl. Add cold water and—if needed—allow to rest until cool to the touch.

Stir in apple cider vinegar and carefully add the wings to the bowl. Place bowl in the refrigerator and allow to brine for at least 3 hours or overnight.

Drain the brined wings and squeeze each one gently with a paper towel to remove excess liquid.

Place 1/2 cup cornstarch in a wide, shallow bowl and coat wings one at a time thoroughly in the cornstarch, making sure each is completely covered, including all the nooks and crannies. Dust off excess cornstarch and place on a dry tray. Continue to add cornstarch to the bowl as needed, and repeat process until all the wings are coated.

Turn on oven to 175°F (or warming setting).

In a Dutch oven, heat 2 inches of oil on high; oil is ready when a tiny pinch of cornstarch sizzles immediately when added. Add a small batch of wings to the hot oil and cook until golden brown, turning occasionally (about 8–10 minutes). Place cooked wings on a large tray in the oven to keep warm. Continue working in small batches to fry the wings.

Once wings are fried, they can be tossed in dry seasoning or sauced to your desire.