Recipe: Mala Marinated Tomato Salad (with Burrata)
/This is this one of those recipes that is meant to help off-season tomatoes reach a higher potential but that would also be so good with ripe tomatoes in season. The background for this idea is really not all that complicated: I love the classic Sichuan mala smashed cucumber salad and I also love salads that revolve around tomatoes. So, why not use that same Sichuan-inspired, numbing-spicy dressing for tomatoes instead of cucumbers?
Sichuan cucumber salad is really the only raw Chinese salad I can think of. The cucumbers are typically smashed first, but lately I have been seeing a lot of recipes on the ‘gram where the cucumbers are cut in a special way to make a cool spiraled effect. The dressing typically leans on the classic Chinese vinegars (rice vinegar and black vinegar), garlic, and soy sauce; and my favorite versions are the ones that also include mala, or numbing-spicy, chili oil made with Sichuan pink peppercorns. It is crisp, cold, and refreshing. It appears as an appetizer on Chinese restaurant menus among other cold dishes like couple’s delight but I love making my own version at home as a side dish (I guess like Korean banchan) when I cook up a really heavy and hearty Asian meal of any sort. The tangy, tingly, crunchy cucumbers are a perfect balance to braised or grilled meats.
While cucumbers will always be a sidekick in my mind, tomatoes can definitely be a main character. In adapting my Sichuan-inspired salad dressing for tomatoes, what I ended up with was, I guess, a Chinese fusion version of a caprese salad. I ended up serving it with burrata and basil (yes, the crazy purple leaves you see are a type of basil called “wild magic”!), and Spouse and I thoroughly enjoyed it as a main course, spooning the tomatoes onto crusty bread. But you can definitely skip out on the burrata and herbs, and serve this marinated tomato salad as an appetizer or side dish.
This recipe involves three different stages of flavor building.
Salting the tomatoes. This is a good practice regardless of the time of year, whenever raw tomatoes make an appearance because the salt really helps bring out the best flavor that your tomato has to offer. Because I tested this recipe when tomatoes were not yet in season, I used more salt than would be needed for really amazing tasting ripe tomatoes. Keep this in mind when you are at this stage of making the recipe. You can use whatever tomatoes you’d like; I recommend a medley of heirloom tomatoes and cherry tomatoes to keep things looking interesting. Just cut them into bite-sized chunks with plenty of open surface area to absorb all the flavors of the marinade.
Marinating the tomatoes in the dressing. I like to allow the raw garlic and the tomatoes to sit for a bit in a more concentrated vinegar mixture so the garlic has the opportunity to pass on some of its punchy flavor to everything else in the mix.
Adding the chili oil. This recipe uses my easy mala chili oil recipe, which you can find here; note that my recipe is a lot less salty than many commercial chili oils, so you may want to keep that in mind if you are opting to use a storebought one. This step is very much to-taste, depending on how tingly you want your tomato salad to be. I recommend adding a tablespoon at a time and tasting along the way. If you do opt to make the caprese-esque version shown in the photos, I recommend not going full-blast with the chili oil in the tomato mixture and reserving some to drizzle over the burrata as a finishing touch.
How I Make Mala Marinated Tomato Salad
Ingredients
2 lbs tomatoes, cut into bite-sized chunks*
1/2–3/4 tsp kosher salt
2–3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp Chinese black vinegar
3 tbsp rice vinegar
1 1/2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp fish sauce
2–4 tbsp mala chili oil
8 oz burrata (optional)
basil leaves (optional)
*If using cherry tomatoes, cut them in half so they can absorb the flavors from the dressing.
Procedure
In a large bowl, add tomatoes and salt and toss to combine.
In a separate small bowl, whisk together garlic, both vinegars, sugar, and fish sauce. If you are very impatient, microwave the mixture for 10 seconds to help dissolve the sugar. Once the sugar is dissolved, add the dressing to the tomatoes and mix gently but thoroughly to coat. Allow to marinate for at least 10 minutes. (I recommend 20–30 minutes for off-season tomatoes.)
Add chili oil to your taste and mix gently to combine.
For optional “caprese” version: Spoon tomatoes and some dressing into a serving dish. Tear burrata into large globs and distribute amongst the tomatoes. Drizzle additional chili oil over the burrata. Garnish with basil. Serve with toasts or crusty bread.