Savory Sandwich Cake with Truffle Pâté

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Surprise—This layer cake is actually bread! One of my goals for this year is to take dishes and food concepts that are normally associated with desserts and reimagine them with savory foods. For this recipe, I took inspiration from the Swedish smörgåstårta, which is basically a stacked sandwich made to resemble a frosted layer cake. But instead of tucking Scandinavian seafood fillings in between the slices of rye bread, I wanted mine to be a centerpiece version of the little tea sandwiches you might find at a garden tea party. ⁣

I developed this recipe for Three Little Pigs, using their truffle mousse pâté, homemade savory onion chutney, and cucumbers. The “cake” is frosted with a whipped goat cheese and mascarpone blend and decorated with dill, parsley, geraniums, daisies, and chamomile flowers.

Click here to get the recipe on the Three Little Pigs site!

Thank you so much to Three Little Pigs for sponsoring this recipe!

Recipe: Savory Veggie Cupcakes with Cheesy Cauliflower Frosting

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For this recipe, I partnered with Cabot Creamery to create a savory version of a cupcake! These moist and tender cakes are loaded with broccoli and sharp cheddar and made both flavorful and fragrant with the help of a touch of curry.  Believe it or not, the “frosting” is savory too—it’s actually a smooth cauliflower purée loaded with sharp cheddar!

One of my creative challenges for myself this year is to explore making savory versions of foods that are usually associated with desserts. I’m someone whose taste buds always crave savory flavors over sweet, but I admit that my eyes are so often drawn to the beauty and visual delight of dessert confections. Just looking at a cupcake already brings me joy. But then I realized that there’s no reason for why savory foods can’t get that same visual attention, and that’s exactly what I set out to do with this savory cupcake recipe.

I’m glad that Cabot Creamery was willing to encourage my crazy idea, as their wonderful cheddars have become a regular tactic for bringing richness and cheesy goodness to my savory dishes. Cabot is a co-operative owned by farm families throughout New England & New York and 100% of profits go back to the farmers, which is another reason to love their stuff. I used their Vermont Sharp Cheddar Cheese in both the cake and frosting components of this recipe, which brought such a nice buttery tang that meant I didn’t even need to use butter in this recipe. With Cabot Creamery’s cheddars having 0 grams of lactose per serving, this savory cupcake recipe was developed with my lactose-sensitive pals in mind, too!

I hope you find these savory cupcakes as joy-inducing as I do! Let’s get into the details about these unique baked goodies and the ingredients you’ll need to make them for yourself.

Notes on the key ingredients for the cakes:

• Broccoli: I thought a savory cupcake ought to be veggie-forward to make it something that—unlike its sweet counterparts—could be enjoyed throughout the day while getting some nutritional goodness out of it too. For this recipe, I used the very tops of the broccoli florets only and chopped them super fine (as shown in the photo) such that the cakes would have an even and delicate texture throughout.

• Onion: A must to bring flavor and aromatics to any savory dish, I incorporated onion into my savory cake recipe too. I cut the onion into a fine dice and sautéed it with the broccoli before adding it to my cake batter so that it would basically dissolve into the background and all you would notice is the added flavor complexity from it.

• Cheddar: For me, cheese is what brings excitement to a savory dish; it’s what makes something ordinary feel rich and indulgent. So in order to make these savory cupcakes feel just as decadent and luxurious as sweet ones, I loaded this cake recipe with lots of Cabot Vermont Sharp Cheddar. Its boldly sharp flavor and smooth consistency are perfect for tying together the veggie and spice components of the recipe. I grated the bar using the standard holes of my box grater for this part of the recipe.

• Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Inspired by sweeter olive oil cakes, I leaned on a high-quality extra virgin olive oil to keep my savory cakes moist.

• Oat Milk: In keeping with the challenge to avoid ingredients containing lactose, I used a full-fat oat milk here. You could definitely sub with your favorite nut milks if desired.

• Curry Powder: This addition is what makes the cake interesting! I just love the combination of curry and cheddar together and I think the curry really takes the flavor profile of these out of breakfast muffin territory and into something more special. I used a Japanese style curry powder which brings a complex blend of spices without adding any spicy heat.

Notes on the key ingredients for the frosting: 

• Cauliflower: I made a cauliflower purée to act as the “frosting” for my savory cupcakes. Boiled cauliflower is easy to get smooth and spreadable in the food processor without adding extra cream and it is also so very foolproof (unlike potatoes that can get gummy if over-handled). I’ve been pretty obsessed with cauliflower lately because it’s light and absorbs other flavors so well. After boiling the cauliflower, you’ll want to squeeze out the excess moisture before adding it to the food processor to avoid your savory frosting being too runny; you don’t want to wring it bone-dry but you do want to give it a good squeeze until water is no longer actively dripping from it. 

• Leeks: These mild alliums will bring a savory-sweetness to the frosting without overpowering the gentle cauliflower. I used only the white and tender light green parts of the leek for this recipe to keep the frosting smooth as well as neutral in color.

• Garlic: I added just a touch of garlic to the frosting for savory complexity. A recipe with just one clove of garlic is unusual coming from me, but in this case, it is possible to overdo it; in my recipe testing I tried raw garlic and more cooked garlic and those tests were  too overwhelming for those whipped, light, frosting vibes. Trust me on this one. You’ll want to gently sauté the garlic with the leeks before combining it with the boiled cauliflower.

• Cheddar: Cabot Vermont Sharp Cheddar is what brings the main flavor here to this frosting. Since the cauliflower’s taste is pretty neutral, it leaves room for the delicious cheddar flavor to shine, so this frosting is very cheesy tasting indeed. I used a grater with small holes to finely grate the bar so that it would incorporate smoothly into the purée.

• Lemon Juice: This brings some brightness to the flavor of the frosting and enhances the buttery tang of the Cabot Vermont Sharp Cheddar.

• Extra Virgin Olive Oil: This helps keep the purée smooth and emulsified.

• Miso Paste: I used a white miso here which is sweeter and milder than other types of miso. It brings an extra umami and saltiness, and it rounds out the savory flavor profile and makes it feel more complete. If you have a different type of miso, I suggest reducing the quantity; if miso paste is difficult for you to source, I recommend just adding a little extra salt, to taste.

Note that this recipe makes more than enough cheesy cauliflower frosting to do a casual coat over the tops of the cupcakes. But if you want to get your piping bags out and pipe a big ol’ swirl, or at least do a nice thick layer that you can decorate with pretty flowers like me, then this recipe will allow for those creative discretions!

How to Make Savory Veggie Cupcakes
with Cheesy Cauliflower Frosting

(Makes 12 cupcakes)

Ingredients for the Frosting

1 head cauliflower, cut into chunks
3/4 tsp kosher salt, divided
3/8 cup + 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 cup leeks (white and light green parts only), roughly chopped
1 clove garlic, roughly chopped
6 oz Cabot Vermont Sharp Cheddar, finely grated
2 1/2 tsp white miso paste
1/4 cup lemon juice

Ingredients for the Cupcakes

2 cups broccoli florets chopped very fine
1 cup yellow onion, finely diced
2/3 cup + 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided
1/2 tsp kosher salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
4 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp cumin
3/4 tsp Japanese curry powder
4 oz Cabot Vermont Sharp Cheddar, grated
2 eggs, at room temperature
3/4 cup oat milk, at room temperature

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Procedure

To make the frosting: Add cauliflower to a pot and cover with water. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Boil until very tender and almost falling apart (about 10-15 minutes). Drain and allow to cool.

Heat 1 teaspoon of olive oil in a skillet on medium-low heat. Add the leaks and season with 1/4 teaspoon salt. When they start to become fragrant, add the garlic. Continue cooking the aromatics, stirring occasionally, until they are tender (about 3–5 minutes).

Squeeze out any excess moisture from the cauliflower and add the cauliflower  to the food processor. Add the cooked aromatics. Pulse until the cauliflower resembles a grain-like texture. Add the miso paste and one-third of the cheddar. Process until the ingredients look combined. Repeat with the rest of the cheese in two more batches. Add the lemon juice and the remaining 3/8 cup olive oil and process the mixture until very smooth, using a spatula to scrape the sides as needed. Transfer the purée to a bowl or piping bag and set aside or, optionally, allow to chill in the fridge. (Note: I found it to be easier to pipe/spread after chilling briefly in the fridge.)

To make the cake: Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a cupcake/muffin pan with paper baking cups.

Heat the skillet again on medium-low heat, with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the onion and salt, and sauté until translucent. Add the broccoli and stir gently, cooking just until it becomes a vibrant green. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.

Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, garlic powder, cumin, and curry powder in a large mixing bowl. Add the cheddar and mix until it is evenly distributed.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, and remaining 2/3 cup olive oil until well-combined. Add the cooled broccoli and onion mixture and stir to combine.

Gently fold the wet mixture into the dry one, until the liquid seems fully absorbed and no floury streaks remain. Mixture should be very thick. 

Divide the mixture evenly into the paper baking cups. Bake at 425°F for 5 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and continue to bake for 15–17 minutes, or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Leave the cupcakes in the pan for an additional 3 minutes to set before transferring to a cooling rack.

Once the cupcakes are cool enough to handle, they can be frosted and decorated as you wish! (The photos show the cupcakes decorated with nasturtium, wild radish flowers, and thyme.)

Thank you so much to Cabot Creamery for sponsoring this recipe! Visit their website to find out where you can get their delicious cheeses—which are naturally-aged and have 0 grams of lactose per serving—near you!